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Race Face Next SL Carbon Riser Bars

 
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chiefmatesam



Joined: 28 May 2011
Posts: 493
Location: Poughkeepsie

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 1:53 pm    Post subject: Race Face Next SL Carbon Riser Bars Reply with quote

Ok, made a bit of a dumb decision on my mtn bike. I thought my "alloy" handlebars and stem that were stock with my Iron Horse were causing the front end of my bike to be on the heavy side. Not the case as once I took all the related bits off the handlebar, it wasn't much heavier. DOH!

SO I bought Race Face Next SL carbon riser handlebars coupled to Thomson Elite X4 stem. Don't regret the stem purchase one bit, but after I mounted the handlebar and gave some thought about my fat can on these handlebars and wondered if anyone else had good experience with it. I got the handlebars for a REALLY good price new (I have a feeling it had to do with the width, which is good for me because I have broad shoulders), but I have to wonder how they'll hold up to my 240 lbs. I put them on my XC hardtail, but I tend to like to ride down hills fast and jump stuff. Should I cut my losses and sell it? I've read really good things about them, especially being tested up to DH standards...
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ProfessorCracker



Joined: 21 Jan 2007
Posts: 733
Location: Taghkanic ny

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 8:47 am    Post subject: Run it Reply with quote

Run it..
Just check your parts, everything breaks....hear a strange sound, check it (I have broken everything from a "forever" Moots titanium, Ellsworth all mountain frame , carbon road frame and even two steel road frames!)
I have heard strange sounds coming from my carbon bars after taking a big hit or hard crash-I usually swap them out....usually.
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chiefmatesam



Joined: 28 May 2011
Posts: 493
Location: Poughkeepsie

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I appreciate the advice! I've broken all the stock stuff on my Iron Horse (or worn it out). I've recently started buying better components and parts in the hope that it'll last longer. Even have downhill wheels so I can have a bit more fun Wink I've been fortunate enough not to have killed my aluminum road frame yet...although the jumps and abuse my Iron Horse frame has taken is unbelievable. I'm sure the day will come when I finally kill it...but then it's just a good excuse to go full suspension!
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Henrik



Joined: 09 Oct 2008
Posts: 253
Location: Bloomington

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be more concerned with the Thomson stem. As a fellow member of the Clydesdale club, I've had micro cracks across the faceplates of those. Not as bulletproof as you might think/hope.
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chiefmatesam



Joined: 28 May 2011
Posts: 493
Location: Poughkeepsie

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tip Henrik! I'll keep a close eye on it. I read that about the stems, but most everyone said they were great about the warranty. We'll see what happens.
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stevelei



Joined: 13 Sep 2007
Posts: 498

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be sure to check the recommended torque for both the stem and handlebar.

If you opt to go back to an aluminum handlebar check out Origin 8 Pro-Torq Riser. This bar isn't too heavy and is quite stiff due to the hydro-forming and it looks great in it's brushed finish, available in silver or black.

I'm running them on Thompson stems and yes watch the those face plates from time to time. Another solid stem is a Ritchey Comp.

* 6061-T6 Tubular alloy construction
* Hydro-formed shape for increased rigidity
* 245g
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chiefmatesam



Joined: 28 May 2011
Posts: 493
Location: Poughkeepsie

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stevelei, thanks for the advice. Being a bit of an engineer, I'm a real stickler when it comes to proper torque (I have 3 torque wrenches amongst my other myriad of tools-I even use my torque wrench on the lugnuts of my cars). From the instructions and looking at the design, I have my theories as to why there is cracking.

I tend to not be a weight weenie, but had hoped putting a lighter stem/handlebar on would make my bike a little less front end heavy. I think it's just a combination of the DH wheels and the fork that does it. I'll keep in mind though your handlebar suggestion. We'll see what the coming months though bring on this thing...
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BillB3
Site Admin


Joined: 30 Aug 2006
Posts: 1572
Location: Kingston, NY

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is a torque? Is that french?
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stevelei



Joined: 13 Sep 2007
Posts: 498

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Torque is defined about a point not specifically about axis as mentioned in several books.

A force applied at a right angle to a lever multiplied by its distance from the lever's fulcrum (the length of the lever arm) is its torque. A force of three newtons applied two metres from the fulcrum, for example, exerts the same torque as a force of one newton applied six metres from the fulcrum. The direction of the torque can be determined by using the right hand grip rule: if the fingers of the right hand curl in the direction of rotation and the thumb points along the axis of rotation, then the thumb also points in the direction of the torque.[5]

Basically if you are descending at 20 miles an hour on a 29"er and hit a rock or log and begin to go over the bars how much torque at impact plus pivot plus angle pitch will determine how much the impact will be.


Last edited by stevelei on Fri Feb 03, 2012 9:21 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Riceball



Joined: 01 Nov 2006
Posts: 509
Location: disAccord

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think someone's toque is over-torqued...eh?
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stevelei



Joined: 13 Sep 2007
Posts: 498

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check with Newton
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